I had a lot of fun creating this design. Since our exhibit is going to be in two phases, I choose to work with the theme of performance. For the first phase I used the theme of celebration/upscale event. Therefore, I choose to pace the 3 wedding dresses in chronological order in the case. Then I placed the Honeymoon Trousseau Dress as the final piece in the case. On the opposite side of the room I placed the corset, which would of been worn by the bride under her wedding or Trousseau Dress. I also placed the Dolman because it was a high end jacket that would of been worn to a special event, potentially worn by a guest to a high end wedding. Therefore, the overall theme of the first phase was the celebration/upscale event.
The 2nd phase looks at the concept of performance through every day material. In the class it starts with the day dress, followed by the assembly dress, and then the 2 waistcoats. These were every day items that were expected to be worn in the day to day activities of citizens.
My only issue I ran into was the card case, I had an issue connecting it to the upscale event phase and I do not consider the card case part of everyday experience because it is a mourning card case. It is an accessory that is expected at a normal funeral, thus aiding in the concept of normal performance wear. Which is why I placed the card case between the top hat and the shoes in a case on the opposing wall.
Phase 1
I am unable to upload Phase 1, however it is the same design set up!
In the case will be the 1837 Wedding Dress, 1845 Wedding Dress, 1850 Wedding Dress, and the 1888 Trousseau Dress
-On the opposing wall will be a case holding the corset ( the same position as the shoe case in phase 2)
-The Dolman Will also be a in case on the opposing wall ( same position as the top hat)
- The crazy quilt will be hung up between these two cases on the opposing wall.
Below is Phase 2
- In the case it will include; the Day Dress, Assemble Gown, 18th Cent. Waistcoat, 19th cent. waist coat
- The crazy quilt will be placed behind the 18th and 19th cent. waistcoat on the wall.
- On the opposing side there will be 3 cases holding the card case, shoes, and top hat.
Phase 2
Sunday, December 2, 2012
Sunday, November 25, 2012
A Touch of History
Mark Smith's book Sensing the Past was our reading
for this past week. In Sensing the Past,
Smith examines how the senses such as; seeing, hearing, smelling, tasting, and
touching are all important pieces of history that tend to be overlooked. Prior
to reading this book, I never thought about how one can experience history
through senses. However, Smith makes a point that the use of sense gives an
important insight into history that can easily be overlooked. We tend to
experience some of these senses collectively and naturally assume that they go
hand in hand. One could argue that the sense of seeing and touching are very
similar, however sight and touch are two different things. In Smith’s chapter about
touching he speaks about the handshake and how important handshakes are in our
society. There is a history being a strong handshake, however as our society
has developed the concept of a strong handshake the sense of touch is used to
develop this history.
In addition to the
chapter that delved into the sense of touch, I also found the chapter that
examined the sense of hearing to be interesting. Smith stated that the sense of
hearing was used to bridge together sight and other weaker sense such as taste.
Naturally when we think about the concept of sound we think of some sort of
noise. However, Smith states that during the slavery period many slaves used
the concept of silence, no sound, as a way to stand their ground and disobey
their masters. The slaves were able to control when and where they sang songs
from their culture, it was one of the only things that the slaves were able to
control. One could imagine how important the sense of sound was to the history
of slavery in the country.
The overall theme of Smith’s book was that we as the
culture have the ability to look at history not only through the sense of
sight, however we can use the sense of hearing, smelling, tasting, and touching
to further our understanding of history. This overall theme made me think about my Trousseau dress in a different light. How would the dress feel on the individuals skin? Was the silk smooth as we believe? Would the dress naturally generate a certain noise as the young woman walked around in it? These are all questions that involve the concept of sense and would give us a more in depth understanding of our objects.
Sunday, November 18, 2012
Legs vs. Arms? Is one more important than the other?
Prosthetic
Impulse was an enjoyable and interesting read that addressed the concept of
prosthetics and there use in society. The book contained numerous articles that
looked at different aspects associated with prosthetics however I believed that
the overall theme from the book was how prosthetics were used to create a sense
of normalcy for the individual that is missing a limb. While living out in
California and training at the Olympic Training Center I was fortunate enough
to get to know some of our Paralympic athletes. Some of these athletes are
missing their limbs and use prosthetic's to run and compete. These athletes do
not view themselves as abnormal and their prosthetic have made them become
normal. I agree with the argument that prosthetic's allow an individual to live
a normal day to day life by giving an individual the ability to walk or run.
Additionally, I do not believe that these prosthetic make the individual any
less human or un-natural they simply aid an individual in maintaining a normal
life style.
Out of all
of the chapters, I found chapter 1 to be interesting because the author went
through her own experience of having a prosthetic leg. Sobchack stated that
within the world of arms and hands have been granted agency compared to legs. I
found this to be very interesting observation because how our entertainment
world grants agency one could state that it is just as normal to have a
prosthetic arm or hand instead of a leg. The importance of agency has been
created based on what society finds and values as more interesting and appealing.
Does this mean that as a society we value our arms over our legs? I have
difficulty understanding why we have placed value on a part of our body however
we didn’t carry it over to another section of the body. I feel that how we socially construct the thought
of being disabled it what allows us to place value and agency on one part of
the body over another. Does it come back to some level of sexual
attraction/fetish that is associated with the prosthetic?
Referencing
back to my friends that live in California and are Paralympic athletes, these individuals
felt that prosthetics had a negative connotation when our society places a
negative connotation on them via through language. When we use phrases such as
disabled or handicap, many individuals feel that they are not handicapped they
are simply just missing a limb and the prosthetic is there in place for what
naturally should be there. Unfortunately, I had difficulties relating the book
to my article of clothing but none the less I found the book to be very
interesting.
Sunday, November 11, 2012
Jeans are everyone's best friend :)
Blue Jeans: The Art of The Ordinary written by Daniel
Miller and Sophie Woodward was an ethnographic study on the journey of the blue
jeans. I found Miller and Woodward’s approach to blue jeans to be interesting
because Miller and Woodward argued that blue jeans have continued to be a part
of our culture due to the aspects and feelings that have been associated with
the jean pants, and argued that these thoughts and feelings associated with
blue jeans is why we continue to see the blue jeans generation after generation. I found this aspect of feelings that clothes
give us to be interesting because at the beginning of class when I first saw my
dress my first question was how could this be comfortable for a woman to wear?
I believe that Miller and Woodward believed that blue jeans became a corner
stone in fashion because of the comfortable feeling that was associated with
the jeans. Earlier in the semester we spoke about fashion and how fashion was
not associated with feelings such as being comfortable. However, Miller and
Woodward make the argument that jeans became and held being popular because the
jeans are comfortable which would make blue jeans truly extraordinary yet blue
jeans themselves are ordinary and worn day to day which is why many have fallen
in love with them. There are not many similarities that are associated with the
book and my object, however I do believe that blue jeans are truly an iconic
fashion symbol in our society thus doing an ethnographic study is valuable and
interesting. Everyone has a favorite pair of jeans; male/female, old/young jeans can be found in generation after generation.
Sunday, November 4, 2012
A picture is worth a thousand words- but we need to only use 50 :)
Object Exercise #4:
Captions
Caption #1: Bustle Period Theme- Historical (Word Count: 85)
This 1888 Wedding Trousseau dress was a result of the Bustle
Period which was a period of fashion that emphasized the curves of the female.
Viewed as scandalous from those conservative and rooted in the past. This dress
was a part of the 3rd phase which emphasized the posterior of the
female yet it was not overly extravagant or large. The dress kept it shape by the hoops and
padding that was worn underneath which helped aid in giving shape to females
who needed it.
Phase
1 Phase 2
Caption # 2: Numerous
Changes of Outfits (hinting at class) - Evening Dress (Word Count: 74)
This 1888 Wedding Trousseau dress was one that would have
been worn in the afternoon. With the shorter sleeves and the cut of the dress
lowering in the front, it was acceptable of women in this time to show more
skin as the day went on. Thus, a female found herself changing into multiple
different outfits through the day; starting with being covered up completely
and finishing the day revealing cleavage, shoulders, and arms.
Caption # 3: What is Trousseau Dress? (Word Count: 75)
A Trousseau Dress (1888) was purchased for the bride to be
worn during her honeymoon and newlywed phase. The newlywed was expected to
where the Trousseau dress as a status symbol and it was tradition for her to
wear the dress the first time she and her husband entertained guests in their
new home. This Trousseau dress is lavished with lace and the owner traveled to
Paris to have the dress made custom for her.
Explanation
Writing
these captions was more difficult than I thought it would be. The issue that I
ran into was attempting to get my point across in an effective and interesting
manner however attempting to try to meet the word limit. The third caption
theme which looked at the explanation of the dress is the one that I am leaning
towards. I believe that it is important to understand what exactly a Trousseau
dress is because we do not have this kind of fashion still present in our
society. Our current understanding of a Trousseau dress is a wedding gown,
which was not the case back in the late 19th century. It is hard though for me to not look at the
historical background of the bustle period as well and how the back of the
dress was emphasized the 3rd bustle phase. However, I have realized that
it will be difficult for the audience to understand the 3 phases when only the
3rd phase is being displayed. Therefore, I thought that I could
provide a sketch for the progression of the phases to help the audience member understand
the shift in fashion. I attached some
photos and I am sure I would have to discuss this idea with Clare if I choose
to go in this direction of caption to complement the overall theme of the exhibit.
Overall, I
had fun being creative with 3 different captions. I believe that whatever theme
I go with will be dependent upon the fact of the overall theme of the exhibit.
The captions are meant to complement the overall theme and goal of the exhibit.
Once we speak with Clare and have a better understanding with the direction
Clare is going in, which will allow all of us to fine tune our captions so that
there is an underlying connecting theme found in all of our captions.
Monday, October 29, 2012
History of Object #3 Exercise
Object Exercise #3
This
object exercise dealt with the historical context of the article. I was
unfortunately unable to get in contact with Clare to find out about the donor
card which I was unable to learn more about during my first meeting with the
object due to time constraint. Yet, I
was still able to develop a great of information about the family the dress
belonged to as well as the history of the Trousseau dress in the late 19th
century. Therefore, my object exercise
#3 will begin with my exploration of the Creese Family and The Cresse Student
Center at Drexel University and will finish with exploration of the 2nd
bustle period which is the period Trousseau dress designed from.
The
donor of my object was Mrs. James Creese who lived in Philadelphia. Mrs. James
Creese is the wife of former Drexel University President Mr. James Creese.
Therefore I choose to take the subway over to Drexel University because the
dress is directly linked to Drexel University. Therefore James Creese was the 6th
university president at Drexel University. James served from as the university
president from 1945 to 1963. James had a very extensive educational background;
he was born in 1896 in Pittsburg, PA. James ended up attending Princeton
University in 1914 and graduated in 1918. While at Princeton University, James
focused his studies on humanities and poetry. An important historical note to
mention was that while James was at Princeton World War I was occurring and
James enlisted in the military and served as a second lieutenant in the
artillery division. Following the war James returned to Princeton and completed
his Master’s work and graduated with a Master’s degree in 1920. Following his
Master’s degree Creese became the president of the American-Scandinavian
Foundation where Creese spent most of his time traveling in Sweden. While in
Sweden, Creese married a fellow Pennsylvanian native Margaret Villiers Morton in
1925. In 1928 Creese was name Vice-President and Treasurer of Steven’s
Institute of Technology in New Jersey. While the Vice-President at Steven’s Institute
Creese focused on developing funding and public relations with the community.
Following
his time at Steven’s Institute Creese became the President at Drexel Institute,
which is now known as Drexel University, in 1945. World War II was coming to an
end and many colleges and universities begun to see an increase in student
attendance. Creese saw the need to immediately update the facilities at Drexel
as many universities in the country saw the demand for as well. Creese desired to develop Drexel into an
institute that mimicked MIT however it also offered a strong humanities
department as well, which I am sure was influenced by his humanities background
from Princeton. Creese served as the president from 1945 to 1963. While as
president Creese expanded the undergraduate studies at Drexel and encouraged
female enrollment to the University. Creese also offered an evening school at
Drexel University which allowed many working individuals to complete a degree
and take advantage of the education surge that was occurring in the United
States. Creese was popular among the students at Drexel because many students
believed that Creese made many positive contributions and developments to
Drexel that were geared to improve the experience and life of the students at
Drexel University. The picture above is Creese at the ceremony of the student
center being built on Drexel’s campus. An interesting connection that I found
between Creese and I was that from 1956-1959 Creese was a member of the Board
of Trustee of the Baldwin School. I attended the Baldwin school from
Kindergarten through 5th grade. The Baldwin School is an elite
private school for girls and is well known in the area. This supports Creese
efforts that he made while at Drexel with promoting and encouraging education
for females.
I
believe that my Trousseau dress would either worn by either James or Margaret
mother. The timeline of the dress and age of James would suggest and support the
thought that the dress was worn by either one of their parents. The dress was
donated in 1957 and was dated to be from 1888. With the dress being dated back
to 1888, means that the dress is from the 3rd and final Bustle
period. The third bustle period used wiring, padding, or a combination of both
to emphasis the posterior of the woman. The first bustle period emphasized
extremely large padding on the posterior, the 2nd bustle period went
in the opposite direction and was more tightly fitted on the women’s hips and
had little padding on the back side, and the third and final bustle period had
the posterior padding yet it was not as extreme and wide. My Trousseau dress accurately describes and
fights the description of the third bustle period, which is another clue
supporting that this dress was worn by either James or Margaret’s mother. On the posterior side of the dress there is a beautiful
silk cream ribbon as well as fabric that are meant to be filled in with the
posterior padding that would be placed in the women’s underskirt.
From
my research I have learned that a Trousseau dress was purchased and used as a
honeymoon and newlywed out. The dress was a status symbol to show society that
the young women just married and is now settling into their new place. Research
stated that it was normal for the young women to wear their Trousseau dress
during their first hosting event in their new home. The Trousseau dress that I
was assigned to was a high end dress, which was represented by the large amount
of manufactured lace and silk that was present on the dress. The dress also had
a ribbon label on the inside of the top of the dress with the designer’s name
on “Mme. Barbelet, Paris”. I researched the Mme. Barbelet however I was
unable to find any information on the designer, which leads me to believe that
this was not a mass produce dress. The female that bought this dress traveled
to Paris and had the dress made specifically for her, which reflects that the
woman belonged to a very affluent family.
My
final important aspect of the dress is that the Trousseau dress I have been
assigned was one that would have been worn in the afternoon. As we learned from
Perrot, the way women dress differed throughout the day. It was considered to
be inappropriate if a woman was showing cleavage and her arm during the morning
portion of the day. As the day would continue it was acceptable for women to
have the cut of their dress begin to get lower and reveal more cleavage and are
allowed to shorten their sleeves and show more of their forearm. The top front
of my dress has a cut of a V and revealed more cleavage of the woman. Also the
sleeves of the dress were ¾ sleeves and had lace attached to the bottom of it.
In
conclusion, I am still very excited to have my Trousseau dress. I am still
looking forward to read the donor card that came along with my dress. However,
with the information that I have found about the Creese family, the family that
donated this dress was an important and well-loved educator in the Drexel
Family. Creese was responsible for the
development of Drexel post World War II and help Drexel become one of the
strongest schools in the Mid-Atlantic region. I believe that the information that
I will learn from the donor card will only allow add to the information about
the family and will hopefully give me a better idea of the Creese family and
which side of the family the dress belonged to.
Saturday, October 27, 2012
Hurricanes and Clothes
In this
week’s blog I choose to focus the concept of clothing as a language as well as
the concept of fashion as a commodity. The piece written by McCraken gave great
insight about clothing and how it is a form of language which I felt had some interesting
points that correlated with my trousseau dress. Also the Stallybrass article
that looked at fashion and its relationship to the capitalist society spoke
about fashion as a commodity and fetish which also is related to the trousseau
dress.
The
McCraken article was interesting because it touched upon many numerous points
however the overall theme of clothing as a form of language and how clothing
communicates the language and culture of the time. McCraken states that
clothing can be used as a means to study the cultural principles at the time.
When looking at my trousseau dress I believe that the dress represents the
etiquette that was expected from young women in the 19th century
following their wedding. The Trousseau dress was worn by women during the
honeymoon and newlywed phase of the marriage. The women were expected to have the
dress and in my research I found that the women were expected to wear the
trousseau dress during their first hosting event in their new home. This
cultural piece demonstrates how much emphasis was placed on the etiquette
associated with the bride and what was expected of her after the wedding.
The
Stallybrass article hint many great points however a theme that I believed was
the most important was that fashion was a commodity in culture. We see that
this is present in our culture today in which there are tons of fashion shows,
fashion magazines, and fashion districts all that are specifically designed to
share the fashion culture with others. I believe that my trousseau dress was
viewed as a commodity and many believed that in order to step out correctly in
society following your marriage the woman needs to be in her trousseau dress.
Fashion was a commodity in the 19th century because it was a visual
classification of social class and construction. The theme of Stallybrass’s
article was that fashion is a commodity in culture and thus we should continue
to pay attention to fashion in the past because they can teach us many lessons
such as what was important at that moment in time.
- Hope everyone is safe during the storm!
Sunday, October 14, 2012
Corset or no Corset?
After reading Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: A History of Clothing in the
Nineteenth Century by Philippe Perrot I walked
away with a greater understanding of my Trousseau Dress and look forward to
Clare coming into our class tomorrow to continue the discussion on dress’s in
the 19th century. A very interesting point that I drew from the book
was that fashion was an indicator of class. Perrot states “clothes became
organized as significative differences within a code and as status symbols with
hierarchy”. Thus the choice of dress was
determined based on your class and what was expected from your class when it
came to style. The reason why the
relationship between fashion and class are important because in our society
today we do not use fashion as a determining factor as to whether or not one is
wealthy, we use cars and electronics to show off affluence. Thus, I believe
that clothes hold the same symbolic meaning as electronics and cars do today in
which an individual was able to be identified as to which class they belonged
to base on their outfit and the materials used for the dress.
Another point that I found interesting from the book was
that women wore numerous outfits throughout the day. I found this point to be
important because the Trousseau dress that I was assigned was an evening dress.
Throughout the day women were expected to have a certain amount of skin covered
up, thus one would have to have a breakfast dress in which they could wear the
dress throughout the morning. Then the woman would have to plan on changing
into an afternoon dress in which it was appropriate for a lady to show off a
bit more skin. Finally, the female had
an evening dress which showed off the most amount of skin. Perrot stated that
even on special occasions women would change their outfits, thus it was normal
for a female to make anywhere between 5-8 outfit changes. These changes occurred
because it was necessary! The corset still amazes me, the young lady that wore
my dress had to wear a corset underneath because the design of the dress was to
show off a small waist and emphasize the posterior bust. Perrot stated that
even though corsets were the trendy and women wore them in order to make
themselves appear more attractive the corsets “threatened the body” and gave
women a higher chance of becoming infected with “sickness”.
On pg. 153 Perrot stated that over a 40 year period of observation of
the corset out of 100 women; 25 “succumbed to diseases of the chest, 15 died
after their first delivery, 15 remained infirm after delivery, 15 became deformed.
The most interesting thing about these numbers were that as these negative
health issues occurred as a result of the corset women still wore the corset. I then thought back to my first point that
fashion was a way to classify you with a social class. Thus many women of the
upper class knew that by wearing a corset it not only made them look more
attractive however it also showed everyone else that they belonged to the
wealthy class.
I am really excited to hear the discussion in class tomorrow and especially from my classmates that had dresses as their objects. I wonder if they were able to determine what class potentially their object would fall under.
Monday, October 8, 2012
The exciting process of creating an exhibit
After
reading the articles from this past week the whole exhibit became real to me.
Alice Parman’s article “Exhibit Makeovers: Do-It-Yourself Exhibit Planning” had
a wonderful lay out of a step by step
process to use to get the juices flowing with the exhibit one is planning to
put on. However, before Parman went into
the step-by-step process she drew from the concept of Romance being an
essential component of your exhibit, this element I completely agreed with.
Parman stated that in order to have visitors enjoy your exhibit they need to
fall in love with it. I understood this as being that in order for the visitor
to enjoy the exhibit they need to fall in love with an object being exhibited.
I related this to my dress, which is beautiful in itself. However, how can I
make the visitors fall in love with my dress? I believe that my label that I
associate with the dress will be my key to making the visitor fall in love, which
I will touch upon in a bit.
The
step-by-step planning that Parman spoke about I believe is the strongest
information that I read this past week. The first step is the Mission
Statement, in this step our group decides what our goal of the exhibit it and
what we hope the visitors will take away from the exhibit. Additionally, in the
mission statement phase we need to develop a story line that will draw the
visitors in and keep them interested in the objects throughout the exhibit. Second Step is when we organize our story line into “galleries of thought”. Parman states that it is important to organize our
concepts either based on category, chronology, analogy, observation/deduction, comparison/contrast, theme, and watchword.
All of these organizational concepts are important and we have the
ability to choose how we would like to organize our exhibit, I could see us
using a couple of these ideas so it will be exciting to see what we will
choose. The third step is the inventory which Clare has already chosen what objects she
felt were the most important to be displayed. The fourth step is to find a way to
motivate and engage your visitors, in which we have to take into account that
we will have multiple perspectives and opinions attending the exhibit so we
need to take into account all of these experiences and motivate our visitors. The fifth step is when we would plan the “look and feel” of our exhibit where we take
into account the color of lighting we would choose to use and the dimensions of
the display of the cases being used. The sixth and final step is the production and installation
of the exhibit which is essentially the blueprint of our idea and then making
it become a reality.
A point
that I connected with in Parman’s section about Romance was that it is
important to make the visitors feel like they are learning in their own
desirable way. When students visit our exhibit it would be wonderful if the
student would pick a piece of clothing or object and immerse themselves in the
time and history that surrounds the object. This would allow the student to
learn feel as if they are learning but without having to fill out hand-outs or
take notes. The label would play a key role in this concept and development of
learning. The title of the label needs to draw my visitor in and have them want
to learn more about my dress. Which got me thinking about some ideas already
yet I need to keep in mind that the label would need to match the overall theme
of the exhibit.
Sunday, September 30, 2012
September 30th readings
All of the
readings from this past week dealt with issue race and gender and its relationship
to the object. The articles this week looks at objects that was associated or
commonly found among a certain race or gender. I found this week to be
interesting because the objects showed us how gender roles were present in the nineteenth
century. Additionally, I found it interesting how in the past many historians
over looked the advancements and common standards of living among the
African-American culture due to prior racism and we can see that objects were
found among African-American communities as well.
Upton’s
article examined the landscape of blacks and whites in the 18th
century in central Virginia which at the time had the slave system present. The
most interesting part about Upton’s article was how Upton was describing the
landscape that was found on a plantation and how there were very specific roles
that each found themselves designated to. The way that the plantation was
designed reinforced the social relationship between whites and blacks and how
blacks were considered to be inferior to the white community.
Jane Przybysz’s article “Quilts, Old Kitchens, and the
Social Geography of Gender at Nineteenth-Century Sanitary Fairs”
examined the popular craft of quilting and how it was associated with a
specific gender during colonial America.
With quilting being associated with females it demonstrates that the
gender roles that feminist fight today are deeply rooted in our cultural and
material history. I found that with the article dealing with gender roles is
similar to my object I am studying for our exhibit, in the fact that my Trousseau
dress also have gender roles associated with it with women expecting to have a
honeymoon/newlywed dress to be presentable to society as a newlywed. Another
aspect of Przybysz’s that I believe will help me with my object is that she
used primary sources such as a diary and literature to examine the craft of quilting
and looking at primary sources such as a diary I believe will give me a better
insight as to the social relations that are associated with a Trousseau dress
and the means women went through to have an appropriate garment.
Finally, Ulrich’s book The Age of Homespun, also
showed the gender roles that were associated with specific domestic responsibilities.
We begin to see how it was expected more for women to stay in the home and spin
wool for clothes and candles and the men out in the community doing more manual
labor. Additionally, I found it interesting that Ulrich introduced the
development of the female labor economy which at the time was a bartering
system. Women’s work was deemed valuable and the women were able to exchange
goods among themselves, therefore we saw a community developing among women who
were trading goods among one another.
Sunday, September 23, 2012
Reading Blog #2- Hairwork and biographies
Helen
Sheumaker’s Love Entwined: The Curious History of Hairwork in America examined
the ancient practice of hairwork. The art of hairwork in the 19th
century was an important way for many to mourn and remember loved ones that
have passed away. Sheumaker took an in depth look at art of hairwork through
primary sources as well as secondary sources such as letters, diaries, etc.
With hairwork being popular during the Victorian Age in the 19th
Century, it is crucial for the researchers to not only define the action but to
also to understand the symbolic meaning behind the hairwork. An important
aspect associated with hairwork that Sheumaker spoke about is that the art of
hairwork is associated with social class. Hairwork pieces are associated with
those who come from middle and upper class families. The craft of hairwork was
done by professionals whom many worked out from their home. Middle and Upper
class families had the money to pay for these nostalgic hairwork pieces.
Kenneth
Ames article “Meaning in Artifacts: Hall
Furnishings in Victorian America” examined the design of the Victorian
home and the hallways that were built in these homes. Interestingly enough, it
was common for there to be a long hallway with formal rooms located from the hallway.
This concept is important to know because it gives a great indication as to how
social interactions occurred and how important the hallway was to facilitate
these interactions. An interesting piece of furniture that was about was the
hallstand, which served its purpose as a coat and hat stand. The hallstand was
important in showing visitors the social status of the homeowners, thus if the
hallstand had numerous coats and hats on it one would assume that the family is
wealthy or is popular and has a lot of visitors. Ames stated that if the hallstand
had a mirror, the mirror was another indicator that the family was wealthy.
Dannehel article spoke about object biographies and why
object biographies are important when studying artifacts. As Dannehl states
that it is important to understand the background of the object and the history
that surrounds the object. Yet, Dannehl stated that it is also important for the
researcher to understand the function of the object; how the object was made,
how was the object used, if the object was broken how was it fixed. This examination
of an artifact gives the everyday objects that were normally overlooked receive
more than the face value meaning. Dannehl’s article was a great reading to
finish with because it summed up how important it was to not only look at
artifacts at face value but take time to look at the object in its everyday
function. This gives the researcher a great insight in the social functions of the
artifact as well the how the individual used artifacts to help their life
function more fluidly. There is a lot to
learn from artifacts that can’t been seen by the naked eye, which a more in-depth
understanding of the artifacts gives us a better understanding of the community
and social life that was present at the time. The biography of an object will help me understand my Trosseau dress more and the life of the young woman that wore the dress.
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
Object-Description
Based off of my methodology designed from the first object
exercise the steps that will be included in the methodology will be 1st observation, 2nd step will be the imagination phase, 3rd
step will be the analysis phase. The object that I was assigned was a women’s
honeymoon/newlywed dress called a Trousseau dress. My dress was dated back to
1888 and was made in Paris, France.
The first step
is the observation phase. During my observation of my object I found many
exciting things. My first observation was that the dress was done professional
by a seamstress and it was done very well. The dress was two pieces, the top
section and the bottom section. The dress was made at the end of the bustle
period, thus the dress had less emphasis on the backside but still did draw
attention to the bustle region. The dress looked like it had some padding on
the back side; however not as much padding that was associated with the bustle
period. The bottom of the dress measured 38.5” from the waist to the feet.
The top
went from the shoulders down to the high waist and the bottom of the dress
started from the high waist and went down to her feet. The top of the dress had
a v-neckline in the front that would reveal more of her cleavage and the
v-neckline was also present in the back of the dress. On the top of the dress
on the front there was small round buttons in the center that looked that they
closed the bodice of the dress. The top of the dress was very form fitting, it
was boned and would have sat very snug on the young woman. We were unable to
determine what kind of material was used for the boning of the dress; however
we could assume that it was from whale because of how expensive the dress
looked. The top measured 18.5” from the top center of the V-neckline to the
waist. The top also measured 13” from the center of the top to the side, which
would be roughly a 26” waist measurement from one side of the dress to the
other side. The dress went from the shoulder to the elbow of the young woman.
The dress was
woven and made out of silk and also had machine factored lace throughout the
dress, which demonstrated that the young lady had a lot of money. The colors
that were used in the dress were green, darker cream, and red. The creamer
looked darker because one could tell that the dress was older thus the cream
fabric darkened a tad, but still the colors looked amazing with one another.
The dress was made of silk ribbons that were the color of green and cream. Also
I noticed that there were red rose buds on the cream fabric. The colors of the
fabric were a pattern in which the cream with the red rose buds was alternated
with green silk. The amount of colored ribbon looked varied, in which roughly
the cream fabric looked approximately 2” wide and the green ribbon looked
approximately 1” wide. The same pattern
of silk ribbon was also found on the top of the dress as well, therefore the
top and bottom of the dress mirrored one another.
The dress
had a considerable amount of lace on it as compared to the other Trousseau
dress. The neckline of the dress was trimmed in lace along with the center
front opening for the bodice. Lace was also designed on the sleeve of the arm in
which it went from the elbow to the wrist. The skirt of the dress also has
draped lace throughout the patterns of silk, the largest amount of lace on the
skirt was found on the backside where the bustle was placed. The bottom of the
skirt was also trimmed with lace as well. The color of the lace was cream which
matched the cream ribbon that was used throughout the dress.
The next
phase is the imagination phase, during this phase I place myself in the shoes
of the young woman who bought this dress and think about what the dress would
feel like to wear. Unfortunately when we saw our objects we were unable to feel
the dress, however since the dress is made out of silk it would be safe to
assume that the dress would feel nice on the skin. My initial thought of the
dress was that the skirt had a lot of fabric and material, thus I believe that
skirt would feel heavy on the hips when wearing it. As compared to the top of
the dress which did not look like there was as much fabric used for it. The top
of the dress had built in boning and was designed to fit the woman snug,
therefore when the dress was buttoned fully it would sit very tight on the
woman’s waist and would naturally create a bust line, even if the woman was not
fully chested. Looking at how the bottom of the dress was created, the skirt
looked fuller therefore the woman squeezed herself into the top and was able to
let things fall as they would in the bottom of the dress.
The final
step is the analysis phase. Based on the historical research that I did
regarding a Trousseau dress, the dress was bought for the honeymoon of the
young lady. Since the dress was made in Paris, France we assume that the dress
was purchased while she was on her honeymoon. The woman wore this dressing
during the afternoon because of how the dress was cut. Historically women would
reveal more as the day went on. Therefore, it was normal for a women to start
her day off more covered up then when she was changing into her afternoon
outfit she would reveal more cleavage and more defined curves and this was
socially acceptable. I soon began to think that in order to have multiple
outfits for one day; the woman would have to be wealthy. Having the ability to
change into multiple outfits throughout the day demonstrated how wealthy you
were and allowed the woman to flaunt it to her friends. I am going to also take
it a step further because I believe that this allowed the woman to show what
social class she belonged to simply because she had the ability to change into
an afternoon dress. Therefore, due to the amount of lace that was found on the
dress as well as the dress being made in Paris, France the woman who owned this
dress came from a wealthy background and was able to have multiple outfits per
day.
I am
planning to continue expanding the historical research of the Trousseau dress.
The research I did was preliminary information to give me a good grasp on my
article of clothing. Therefore, I am going to next focus more on the history of
the dress itself and also the social implications that were associated with the
dress. I will attempt to support the claims that I drew during my analysis
section.
Reading Blog #1
In Small Things Forgotten by James Deetz and “Building in Wood in the Eastern United States: A Time-place Perspective” by Kniffen and Glassie had common underlying themes in both of the works. I believe that the main underlying theme from this week’s reading was that architecture is in embedded with a lot of history and culture. When we think of historical artifacts we immediately think of letter, books, painting, clothing, etc. However, we forget about the structures that encompass these historical artifacts. The readings from this past week proved that not only were the materials used in the 1800s were influenced from European countries, we could also see the influence in our building structures as well religious objects. Kniffen and Glassie stated the “method of construction employed had its European antecedents” (Kniffen and Glassie, 178), thus one would derive from the point that there was a stronger European influence than one would think. Deetz references to the advancement in the Tombstone’s used which gave us great insight into the religious attitude that was present. When we look at objects we sometimes overlook any religious or spiritual history that could be associated with it, therefore when Deetz pointed out that the Tombstones were related to a secular religion that is a huge connection with European lifestyle. The typical American attitude is that we are very original and we are not influenced as much so it was very interesting that the readings showed how we are society has been greatly influenced by the European culture even though we try to state that our countries and cultures are not alike. In conclusion, I found both of the readings to be very enlightening because one can learn a lot from artifact, which includes buildings and tombstones.
Tuesday, September 4, 2012
Statement of Purpose
Hello, my name is Kelly Driscoll and I am currently a second
year master’s student in the Master of Liberal Arts program here at Temple. I
am currently pursuing my 2nd master’s degree at temple. My first master’s
degree is a Masters in Applied Sociology (MA) from Old Dominion University in
Norfolk, Virginia. In my undergraduate studies,
which were also completed from Old Dominion University, I doubled majored in
Criminal Justice and Sociology. While at
Old Dominion University I played in goal for our nationally ranked field hockey
program, following my career at ODU I was named to the national field hockey
development team. I soon then got moved up in the central training program and
trained full-time as a member of the US Field hockey team. What a wondering
experience, so needless to say sports have played a strong role in my work ethic
and character.
I am very
interested in studying race, ethnicity, and culture in the urban environment.
After the completion of my degree, I would love to work with the at-risk youth population,
via enrichment programs or non-profit groups. This class interested me because materials
are used in our everyday life whether it is at work, at home, or in social
settings. How one views and interprets these materials determines how we as
human view the material and its relationship to our society. I believe that
materials can dictate the socio-economic status of the individual. Additionally, I am interested in relating how
materials help an individual improve their life situation or how materials
block an individual’s development in our society which will impede the individual
from being successful in the long run. Lastly, I am excited to see how bias in our
society shapes our thoughts and feelings towards specific materials. We never
really look at a material and wonder why we associate it with either male or
female, so I think that throughout the semester it will be very interested and
enlightening.
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